Naxos: The gate of the Temple of Apollo
Naxos is a surprisingly un-touristy town that has a halcyon charm all of its own. I was once stormbound here and developed an unexpected fondness for the place so maybe I am biased! With its hilltop Venetian grand manor houses and cascade of white washed cube-like Cycladic dwellings Naxos is easily recognisable from sea and its harbour provides a safe haven from the sometimes relentless meltemi. If you are looking for a bit of time out from the hustle and bustle of some of the more touristy islands tie up your charter yacht in Naxos and take a relaxing stroll around its picturesque harbour to the arch of Apollo.
Yachts are now expected to make for the Naxos Marina south of the main harbour and ferry quay. Things can get a bit chaotic here if the meltemi is blowing and the marina is fairly tight. Preparation the key to avoiding drama. If possible try and get inside the at least the first pontoon. The outside is OK under normal circumstances but it is subject to ferry wash and swell generated by the meltemi. If you have to moor here leave as much room as possible between your transom and the pontoon to avoid damage.
Some of the berths have laid lines and the nominal charge includes power, water and wifi. Showers are available near the port police. The harbourmaster in Naxos is very friendly so don’t be afraid to ask for help if you think you need it.
The anchorage north of the harbour is sometimes off limits to yachts. Take your cue from other yachts and the sharp whistle of the Port Police! It is possible to anchor south of the marina but it can get unpleasantly rolly here.
Note: If a stronger than average meltemi is forecast the port police or harbourmaster will come to the marina and warn you; if they believe that conditions will become too dangerous you will be advised not to leave.
Ashore there are numerous excellent restaurants, bars and cafes along the waterfront. For something a little different take a walk up the hill to the older part of town, Hora. Up here traditional tavernas rub shoulders with the likes of pizzerias and Thai cafes.
On your way up to your restaurant of choice, take time to explore the narrow alleyways of the old Venetian town and visit the 13 century Kastro. There is an interesting archaeological museum housed here.
Self-catering is also easy on Naxos. This is a very fertile island and fresh fruit and vegetables are in abundance. In the main part of town you can find supermarkets and all the other usual shop as well.
During the summer Naxos hosts many festivals including ones for traditional dancing and singing; ask at the tourist information office for more details.
For a different kind of night out, there is an open air cinema where films are shown in English with Greek subtitles. Watching Mama Mia here, surrounded by delightful elderly ladies in black cackling their heads off, is one of my favourite memories of the place. Ask the tourist information office or a local for directions as the cinema can be hard to find if you don’t have a map.
Back down on the waterfront is one of the famous sights of Naxos. The Arch of Apollo was never finished but attests to Naxos Island’s once prominent position in the supply chain for the production of marble statues and building materials. If you have the time, hire a car or scooter and take a trip to Apollonas to see the giant Kouros. This 10.5m marble statue of a young naked man was left where it was hewn out of the rock due to a crack that developed whilst being carved rendering it unusable. I can only imagine the frustration that must have caused the ancient sculptor!
If you tire of the tiny beach near the harbour there are plenty of other sandy beaches within walking distance. Try Agios Georgios and Agios Prokoplos further south. Plaka Beach is popular and crowded in the summer if you are missing the rest of humanity.
Naxos: The town with yachts moored in the harbour, overlooked by the castle centre left