Sailing in Central Dalmatia

Croatia’s Dalmatian coast runs all down the country from just north of Zadar to south of Dubrovnik. Off the mainland coast there are a huge number of islands offering a wealth of places to explore.

Mali Lago: The bay, centre left, between the islands of Lastovo, left, and Prezba, right

Mali Lago: The bay, centre left, between the islands of Lastovo, left, and Prezba, right

In fact Dalmatia offers so many options that I’ve divided the area in to three parts; north, central and south. The divisions are somewhat arbitrary but correspond to the popular sailing areas and natural breaks in the geography.

I’m including in Central Dalmatia everywhere south of Primosten and north of a line drawn from Gradac on the mainland across the top of the Peljesac peninsula and the island of Korcula.

This area contains slightly fewer islands than further north with none at all between the south end of the Kornati Islands a gap until you reach those opposite Split. However there are some pleasant and interesting stops on the mainland in this island-less gap. Once south of Split, the large islands of Hvar and Brac offer a number of options and there are other smaller islands too.

So there’s more than enough to keep you busy for week south of Split or round the southern Kornati’s. Even two weeker’s will finish their trip with plenty of places still to visit on their next trip.

Pucisca: The town and harbour with the west inlet, centre, and the south inlet, bottom

Pucisca: The town and harbour with the west inlet, centre, and the south inlet, bottom

The central Dalmation coast is probably the best known part of the country after Dubrovnik and there are a number of tourist towns for those that want to shop or party.

However, for those that like a quieter life there are plenty of spots untouched by the hoardes, or where the tourism is more subdued, and several towns such as Split and Trogir that are steeped in history.

Those who appreciate natural sights can visit the Blue Caves at Bisevo, the impressive gorge at Omis or, just outside the area, the waterfalls of the Krk National Park. There are also some superb sandy beaches in the area. So there really is something for everyone.

Pakleni Islands: Yachts at anchor

Pakleni Islands: Yachts at anchor

Sailing conditions are great, with flat calm days uncommon. Though the Bora or Scirroco can push wind strengths up, especially in high season, these interludes are short lived, rarely stronger than F6 in summer, and you can often duck behind an island to reduce the effects.

With ever increasing number of yachts, moorings can get busy in high season and like most areas, there is one place that becomes almost inaccessible at the peak – in this case Hvar town. Elsewhere, it’s just a question of common sense – if you’re set on a small harbour and it’s July or August, you may want to get in a bit earlier. If you’re bound for a large marina, it’s less of an issue.

Baska Voda: Aerial view of the harbour and town

Baska Voda: Aerial view of the harbour and town

There are a number of bases for your cruise including Split, Kastela Marina, just north of Split, and to a lesser extent, Kremik and Trogir. All are reached via Split airport, with both Trogir and Kastela actually being closer to the airport than Split itself. Transfers to Trogir take about 20 minutes, to Kastela about 30 minutes with Split and Kremik both about 45 minutes to an hour away. There are a few other places used as bases by just one or two companies.

Split has Saturday flights from Gatwick, Heathrow, Luton, Stansted, Manchester and Bristol, including some scheduled services for those that prefer to avoid charters and low cost carriers.

For those seeking a bareboat or skippered charter there are plenty of yachts to chose from. There are also a few flotillas operating in the area.

So if you’re looking for some good sailing and like a mixture of places to visit, this could be the area for you.

For more on some of the many places to visit in the area, see the Dalmatia (Central): Ports page (work in progress so excuse some missing write ups). Alternatively take a look at the pictures on this page: Dalmatia (Central): Gallery.