Ormos Isidhorou

Posted on October 7, 2019 by Jez

Ormos Isidhorou is a small bay just south of Antikyra. The area is surrounded by high cliffs with impressive ravines, making for impressive anchorage.

To the west side of the bay is a small beach which can be busy (and at times noisy) but things quieten down once the sun bathers go home. There’s a small cafe on the beach though not unreasonably, it closes once the day trippers leave.

The bay offers pretty good shelter though there can be gusts down from the cliffs at times. Take care when anchoring to avoid the large concrete blocks on the bottom off the beach.

Kiato

Posted on October 7, 2019 by Jez

Kiato is a holiday town on the south coast of the Gulf of Corinth. It’s about 20 miles west of Corinth. The town is popular with Athenians wanting a break from the city as it has a direct rail connection.

Kiato was originally focused on citrus and grape farming, and the raisins are allegedly famous. However, the main attraction for most is the long beach, though it’s pebbled not sand. It’s all getting rather organised with sun loungers and umbrellas for hire.

To serve the sun bathers there are of course plenty of restaurants and shops. And as the evening wears on, the bars ramp up the music. There are quieter and arguably more attractive beaches a short distance out of town.

Culture vultures will be more attracted by other things. Near the railway station is the municipal art gallery. You can also apparently visit the warehouses once used for the raisins.

A short distance south west of the town are the ruins of Ancient Sikiona. This was the original settlement. Most visible are the ruins of the Theatre and the Bath House.

You should aim for the main harbour. Smaller yachts may squeeze in to the smaller fishing harbour to the east though it’s usually crammed with local boats.

Kiato isn’t my cup of tea. But for those looking for a bit more life than at some of the other Corinth destinations, or who just want some beach to lie on, it fits the bill.

Saranda

Posted on October 7, 2019 by Jez

Ormos Ay Saranda makes a welcome swim stop or possible overnight anchorage on route along the northern coast of the Gulf of Corinth. The bay is wide and sandy making the holding good but local authorities prefer if you anchor well out from the beach which can put you in fairly deep water.

A small harbour on the western side allows easy access by dinghy to the holiday village of Sarantis Beach at the head of the bay. There are some shops and café/tavernas on shore and it is possible to buy basic provisions but by and large there is not much here to hold your attention for long.

Itea

Posted on October 7, 2019 by Jez

Itea is a working port and as such is a bit rough and ready around the edges. However, the locals are welcoming and the town manages to maintain a sense of calm. It’s a pleasant place to make landfall on your sailing holiday.

Itea is only 20 a minute drive from the UNESCO World Heritage site of Ancient Delphi, making it an easy place to moor your yacht and visit these spectacular ruins. Buses to Delphi cost 2€ one way (2019).

When visiting Itea you are bound to find something to appeal to everyone, even if it is just the lovely beaches with their dramatic mountain backdrops. In town there are the usual array of restaurants, shops and tourist services. There are some small supermarkets or ask directions to the excellent “MyMarket” supermarket.

The harbour/marina is meant to have room for 250 yachts but unfortunately a lot of this space is taken up with local boats. Visiting yachts are often relegated to the southern breakwater which is pleasant enough as long as you avoid the sluice holes, where any swell can set up quite a wash and lead to a very noisy night.

Watch your fenders here (especially at low tide) as the mole is low and the afternoon breezes often pins you to the quay. If your fenders are too high (i.e. not touching the water) they can pop out and damage to your yacht can occur quickly.

There is sometimes access to water and electricity and sometimes you may be charged for both these services and use of the quay. This collection of monies owed is somewhat erratic and the official Port Police office is hard to find. Don’t pay anyone who can’t provide appropriate ID.

Fuel can be delivered to the outer mole or there are petrol stations reasonably close to the harbour.

Itea isn’t somewhere I’d particularly head for. If I were visiting Delphi I would probably aim for Galaxidi in preference. It’s not an unpleasant place, just rather unremarkable.

Ancient Delphi

Posted on October 7, 2019 by Jez

You will struggle to sail to Ancient Delphi but I thought it merited a mention.

Delphi: The Temple of Apollo

A trip to the late bronze age site of Ancient Delphi is a must if you are undertaking a sailing holiday in the Gulf of Cornith. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Both the ports of Itea and Galaxidi are within easy visiting distance of the site and provide a safe berth for your yacht. Taxis and buses zip up and down the mountainous terrain to the site continuously, so getting there couldn’t be easier.

Located on Mount Parnassus, the spectacularly beautiful site was once considered to be the centre or “navel” of Gaia (the world) and has a stone omphalos (navel) to prove it!

Famous for the Oracle of Apollo, the Pythia or priestess at Ancient Delphi would provide cryptic predictions and advice for both the state and individuals while in an ecstatic trance or “rave”. Evidence suggests that natural gas leaking out of the crevices here at the time probably had a lot to do with such visions, although there are many other theories as well.

Delphi: Some columns!

Needless to say, the Oracle was consulted before all major battles of the time, expected to help work through difficult decisions of political and public policy and was often called upon to interpret significant signs and portents.

Added to this workload, Ancient Delphi hosted games dedicated to Apollo every four years. So as you wander the site, you can see how busy and important it must have been in its day. Ancient Delphi’s Temple of Apollo was built around the 4^th Century BC and was dedicated to the worship of Gaia.

The site of Ancient Delphi is spread over the steep hillsides. It extends over both sides of the road so it can take some time to get around it all. However, you can see the highlights in half a day if you are pushed for time.

There is an excellent museum (the Delphi Archaeological Museum) and small café on site. Entry tickets cost 12€ and this includes admission to the museum. The site is open daily 0800-2000 except Tuesday when it is open 1000-1730. (It is closed on some public holidays).

Trizonia

Posted on October 7, 2019 by Jez

The island of Trizonia is a strange mixture of laidback charm, unfinished business and postcard views. A sleepy backwater that once had aspirations of becoming a yachting hub, Trizonia has had a clean up in recent years but sadly still hasn’t succeeded in realising its marina dream. Which may be no bad thing.

Trizonia is unique in that it is the only inhabited island in the Gulf of Corinth. It is a wonderful place to visit on your flotilla or bareboat sailing holiday and the locals are a welcoming bunch, despite always seeming somewhat surprised to see visitors!

The small village on the island has enough shops and restaurants to please most people but grocery shops are small and only carry basic supplies. If you want a better selection of items you can catch the water taxi to Glifadha on the mainland opposite the island. The water taxi leaves roughly every hour.

Hotel Drymna offers showers and a laundry service at a price.

The “marina” is better than it was but still has the slight air of decay. Most of the wrecks have been removed but the odd abandoned boat still remains. My advice would be to approach with caution and try and go alongside if possible or use a trip line if using your own anchor.

Power and water tend not to be available unless you have a very long hose pipe or are willing to lug the odd container up and down the quay. However, the town was working on improving the services. (Rumour has it there may soon be a new water tap at the end of the SE mole)!

The protection from the wind is excellent in the harbour and anchorage and the holding in the anchorage is usually very good so it’s a great place to get a good night’s sleep.
Fees are sometimes collected for an overnight stop. 7.70€ for a 13m yacht (2019).

Onshore there are some lovely walks around the wooded slopes of the island and away from the tiny town there is a patchwork of olive groves and wooded hills and gullies. There are a couple of beaches but the water is a bit murky in the marina bay due to the almost circular nature of the cove.

Galaxidi

Posted on October 7, 2019 by Jez

Galaxidi is one of my favourite ports of call in the Gulf of Corinth. This small dogleg of a harbour with its associated picture-perfect village maintains a semblance of peace despite being “discovered” in recent years. It’s also a handy start point for a visit to Ancient Delphi.

Galaxidi: The quay and town

If your crew is hankering after some heart pumping action be sure to visit Galaxidi at the weekend or during a public holiday to mingle with the livewires that dance to the latest beats into the wee small hours of the morning.

On other days, you can relax on the quay before taking a leisurely stroll along the east side of the harbour through the lovely public parks and gardens. Take your swimwear so you can enjoy a dip at one of the many tiny beaches. Galaxidi; a must do on any flotilla or bareboat holiday in the Gulf of Corinth

The quay at Galaxidi has been upgraded over the years. Power and water are available. You pay for your nights stay and the services at the little kiosk on the quay. 11€ per night for 13.5m yacht including power and water (2019). Fuel can be ordered and will be delivered to the quay by tanker.

The harbour is reasonably small for manoeuvring and can be busy so be prepared to have all your lines, fenders and anchor ready to deploy before approaching the quayside.

If you take a wander around the cobbled streets of town you will find a more than enough restaurants and bars to suit most tastes and enough small shops to fill the boat with essential provisions. There are no big supermarkets in town but you can always take a taxi further afield if you need extra things.

There is a small and interesting maritime museum in Galaxidi. The town is close enough to the wonderful UNESCO World Heritage Site of Ancient Delphi to make it an interesting day trip from here. Taxis advertise on the quay or you can hire a car to reach the site high in the mountains.

“Clean Monday”, (or the beginning of Lent, or the first day of spring depending on your take on this time of year), is a day of huge, but joyous, chaos in Galaxidi. The townsfolk and outsiders indulge in The Great Flour War to celebrate the end of the Carnival Period and the start of Lent. If you are lucky enough to be here at this time of year and want to be involved, be prepared to wear old clothes and swim goggles as the coloured flour gets everywhere. Another tip from locals is to plan ahead where the “safe” zones are in town in case you need a time out from the wild revelries. Don’t forget to bring some flour!

Antikyra (Andikirion)

Posted on October 6, 2019 by Jez

Antikyra is one of the main towns on the northern coast of the Gulf of Corinth. With its workman-like seafront of tavernas and shops, it makes a welcome change from the beach holiday villages that make up the usual fare for this coastline.

Famous in ancient times for the healing qualities of its black and white hellebores, Antikyra is a delightfully unassuming place with very friendly locals. It deserves a spot on any sailing holiday passage in the Gulf of Corinth.

Having sat out a three-day gale here, I can tell you that the harbour at Antikyra and the associated anchorage are well sheltered.

There is another t-shaped breakwater around the headland to the southwest should more space be required or the wind direction changes!

The town quay is reasonably well maintained as it is used by the tugs from the Aluminium Plant across the bay. Water and electricity is available. Sometimes there is a charge of 5€ per night. There is good holding in the bay if there is no room on the quay.

In town there is a large array of restaurants, bars, cafes and provisioning shops. There is also a good hardware shop should your boat need some love and attention. Town can be fairly lively on the weekends and during public holidays. Ask around town if you need fuel delivered and someone should be able to arrange something. A laundry service is available from Hotel Almira.

At the western end of the bay there is a military installation and a surprisingly good ethnographic/geological museum called “Allotropia”.

Further afield there is some excellent walking and a hike up to “Prophet Elias” Church is worthwhile for the views alone. The church sits on the top of the hill overlooking the headland to the southwest of Antikyra.

Due to the aluminium plant and bauxite mining across the bay, the water here is a bit murky. That doesn’t stop the locals from making the most of the sea. Nor does it seem to have done them any harm!

Nafpaktos

Posted on October 6, 2019 by Jez

Nafpaktos is another of my favourite haunts. It is a beautiful touristy town with a university vibe. It fairly hums with energy no matter what time of the year you visit. Don’t expect a quiet night’s sleep at the weekends or on a public holiday but definitely put it on your list of ports to stop at during your sailing holiday.

Nafpktos: The town and harbour

Nafpaktos’s Venetian built harbour is the hub of the town and is lined with trendy cafes and restaurants. Sadly, there isn’t a lot of room in the harbour for more than a few visiting yachts. Fortune favours the bold so rig your lines and fenders and venture in to see if there is any space. Once in, the protection from the prevailing winds is second to none.

Shoehorning a yacht into the SW corner of the near circular walled harbour is a nerve-racking experience. The SW end of the harbour has the best protection. I have made it in there with a 12.5m yacht by dropping my anchor in amongst the mooring lines of the fishing boats opposite.

Be warned though, it is very tight for manoeuvring in the harbour and it shallows quickly. An easier mooring choice is the concrete quay directly opposite the entrance. Ready your crew and back through the entrance to get the best line.

Outside the harbour the Nafpaktos townsfolk have placed a pontoon for visitors. Protection from the wind and wave action is not as good out there. On the plus side, power and water are available. Neither are offered in the harbour. Yachts anchor outside the harbour as well and if the wind is in the right direction, the holding here is more than adequate for an overnight stop. You can also anchor off the beaches.

Nafpaktos: The small harbour

Ashore in Nafpaktos there are bars, cafes, restaurants and shops galore. Prices can be higher here but the quality is better as well. The backstreets hide an abundance of quirky gift shops as well as some very upmarket clothing and house-ware stores. If you can’t find what you are looking for, ask around and it is bound to be somewhere in town!

There are a few bigger supermarkets here as well, including a large MyMarket. On Saturdays a lively market is held in town.

If the crew fancies a bit of sand between their toes (or in this case pebbles) and a quick dip, there are two good beaches; one either side of the harbour.

Standing guard over Nafpaktos, the Venetian Castle is well worth the sweaty 30 minute climb. The views back down to the harbour and out over the Gulfs of Corinth and Patras are sublime. On a clear day the Patras Bridge (Rio Antirio Bridge) seems to float out over the water in a most unearthly manner. In the Castle grounds there is a small museum and some very interesting statues and interpretation panels. The Castle is closed on Tuesdays and costs 2€ per person.

Alkyion (Alkionidhes) Islands

Posted on October 6, 2019 by Jez

The Alkyion Islands are a lovely place to spend the day. You can stay overnight if conditions are favourable. Also known as Kala Nisia (Nice Islands) the group consists of Daskalio, Prasonisi, Glaronisi and Zoodochos Pigi.

Alkion Islands: The anchorage

The Islands are tucked away at the north eastern end of the Gulf of Corinth. The water is clear, and the views remarkable. The Islands have a sense of other-worldliness that demands you simply lay-back and relax.

There are no facilities ashore. Some of the islands are privately owned. However, no one seems to object to people landing and using the beach or visiting the old monastery.

Zoodochos Pigi loosely translates to “life-giving spring”; good to know if you are made to walk the plank and left marooned on these delightfully remote feeling islands!

There are many options when it comes to anchoring at the Alkyion Islands depending on the wind direction. In most spots there is good holding in sand but study the pilot book and weather carefully before settling down for the night.

There is a small, old, and well broken-down harbour on the northern side of Zoodochos Pigi where it is possible to land a dinghy and visit the monastery but is too shallow and exposed to be much use for yachts.

Don’t try and navigate between Daskalio and Zoodochos Pigi. The isthmus that joins them is shallower than it looks and contains a myriad of rocks.

The Islands are just what you need after a hectic day’s sailing. Choose to visit the Alkyion Islands if you’re are looking for some quality “alone time”.