Category Archives: Cyclades Destinations

Kolona (Kythnos)

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Kolona is a double beach. An isthmus of sand links an small islet to the main island of Kythnos, making a beach on either side of the sand bar. Kolona is a short distance from Kythnos’s main port of Merichas.

It’s a popular anchorage. There’s a restaurant on the beach which is open during the day. The beach gets extremely busy in high season and other than a couple of trees there’s little shade. So you might want to take your own parasol.

Those who are fit can make the walk in to Merichas. It’s about 3 miles. However, the first part of this is along the narrow road which can be a bit intimidating. It’s better to arrive sufficiently provisioned to sustain yourselves once the restaurant closes.

Koufonisia (Little Cyclades)

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Koufonisia (or Koufonissia, even the islands own website doesn’t seem sure) is in fact three islands. Keros is uninhabited while Kato Koufonisia lacks mooring options and also almost uninhabited. So head for Pano Koufonisia.

Pano Koufonisia covers just 5 square kilometres with a population of around 400. The main moorings are at Parianos, a short walk from the main ferry quay and town.

There’s a good choice of beaches, most along the south coast. A good way to get there is to take the local water bus from the ferry quay which runs up to the east end of the island. You can either take the boat back again or walk along the cliff top, vising other breaches along the way. It’s only abuot 3.5 miles.

Beyond the beaches there’s not a lot by way of attractions. A small folklore museum has been formed from donation from the inhabitants. There are a couple of windmills. There are various caves and natural pools, though none very remarkable.

Of perhaps more interest to yachties is the boat yard. This is the only one for miles around. This probably explains the huge number of fishing boats. In terms of boats per head of population, Koufonisia apparently holds the record for Greece.

There are a few tourists, largely Italians for some reason, now encouraged by the ferry service from Piraeus. However, it’s not a busy place as there’s little to do but lounge on the beach. And what’s wrong with that.

 

Schinoussa (Little Cyclades)

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Schinoussa means The Island of the Sun. It’s a small island with a population of around 250.

Schinoussa: The tavernas on the quay

Schinoussa: The tavernas on the quay

Schinoussa lies just off the southern end of Naxos and is part of the Little Cyclades group.

The well sheltered main port, Mersini is on the west coast. It’s a small settlement with a couple of restaurants. There’s a ferry service from here to Naxos and to Piraeus. It’squiet impressive watching the Piraeus ferry swing around in the tight confines of the harbour.

The capital, called Panagia or Chora is a mile or so inland. Panagia offers great views of the surrounding islands. It’s home to a small folklore museum.

Close to Mersini harbour is the cave of Maniatis. There is also a pebble beach nearby, one of a huge number of beaches around the island.

Schinoussa: The ferry from Naxos and the yacht quay

Schinoussa: The ferry from Naxos and the yacht quay

Schinoussa is primarily an agricultural island. As well as the usual cucumbers, tomatoes, figs and melons, it is particularly known for its fava beans and several local cheeses. It also has it’s favourite tipple, rakomelo made from wine and raki.

Most of all Schinoussa is a relaxing place. The ferry puts up a wash as it arrives and leaves but it soon passes. A place to take a dip in the bay, wallow in a good book, or chew the fat over a beer.

 

 

Paroikia (Paros)

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Paroikia is the capital of Paros Island and typically Cycladic. A maze of shimmering, white cubic houses meander uphill from the bustling harbour and associated restaurants and bars. Not as fertile as its next door neighbour, Naxos, Paros can seem a little barren at first sight. However Paroikia has a surprising amount of water which is turned into a delicious local red wine. It’s fabulous for sipping whilst contemplating the next leg of your sailing holiday.

Ashore the most pleasant daytime pastimes are wandering the streets, people watching and ducking into the odd delightfully cool church or chapel. At night there are plenty of options for those that want to party.

Paroikia also offers good shelter if you want some quiet time out of the wind? If you’re sick of a screaming meltemi it offers a pleasant respite from those strong northwesters.

Mooring in Paroikia

The harbour and its combined marina are very popular in the summer months with sailors. The marina is often full and the overflow is made welcome on the outside wall of the north facing quay; fantastic in fair weather but to be avoided if it is blowing strongly from the north. Under these conditions a better bet is to anchor on the north side of the main bay and let things calm down if there is no room on the inside.

Remember to give both sides of the main bay entrance a good offing as shoals extend from either side of the coast. Red and green buoys mark the channel. When manoeuvring within the vicinity of the marina and quay keep a sharp eye out for other watercraft and watch you depths. Silting can occur here.

The marina has lazy lines. These are sometimes a little short, depending on how many times they have been “prop-wrapped” during the season! The outer quay is med-mooring (i.e. you own anchor and stern lines). Water and electricity are available on the quays and fuel is delivered by tanker.

Things to do in Paroikia

There are plenty of opportunities to stock up on supplies here and most other needs (including gas bottle refills) can be met somewhere in town. Just ask around. A well-stocked chandler y store is helpful for replacing those lost items or picking up a new pair of sailing shoes.

Restaurants and bars of every shape, size and budget crowd the harbour streets. A wide variety of tastes are catered for. Likewise there are plenty of clubs and live music venues to keep you rocking to all hours of the day and night. Great news for crews, and skippers alike, who need to blow off a bit of steam!

In Paroikia you can discover many archaeological sites including the famous Ekatontapiliani Church and neighbouring Venetian castle built in 1260. Panagia Ekatontapiliani, dating from 326AD, is one of the finest churches in the Cyclades. The name roughly translates to Our Lady of the Hundred Doors. It is actually three separate churches; Agios Nikolaos, the Church of Our Lady and the ancient Baptistery. There is a Byzantine museum within the same collection of buildings.

Climb up to the Frankish Kastro at sunset to enjoy one of the best views on the island. The churches of Agios Constantinos and Agia Anna with its two mills are also nearby. Down towards the beach lies an ancient cemetery and a former ceramics workshop. A trip to the Archaeological Museum of Paros reveals finds from around Paroikia town and archaeological digs from the rest of the island of Paros.

If you fancy a swim there are many sand beaches dotted around the main bay of Limin Paroikias.

If you run out of things to do in Paroikia you can always hit the road and visit the beautiful northern port of Naousa with its quirky craft shops and pretty little harbour. Another outing to be enjoyed can be found four kilometres south of Paroikia. The verdant,  Valley of the Butterflies makes a beautiful side trip that usually rewards you with glimpses of Paros’ tiger butterflies among other species.

Merichas / Merikas (Kythnos)

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Merichas has a good harbour and plenty of quay space for visiting yachts. Glide in past the ferry dock and go bows or stern-to the wall. As this is a very busy harbour and it pays to stay as far off the quay as possible to minimise the effects of the surge created by the fast ferries. 10€ a night includes water (2015) but power is not available. The Port Police are very friendly here and a useful source of information regarding the town.

Merichas is not a tourist town as such but it has a more genuine feel to it as a result. In recent years efforts have been made to spruce the place up. Once ashore you will find a number of good restaurants, bars and cafes along the waterfront. There are also several small supermarkets etc.

Merichas is a good place to start an inland tour of Kithnos island if you have the time.

Merichas does not have a decent beach but north of the harbour in the lee of Nisos AyLoukas and Ak. Kolona yachts can languish in two fantastic coves; Ormos Fikiadha and Ormos Kolona. These are two enchanting bays with a sunbaked sand causeway separating their somnolent waters. Either float free at anchor or longline to the shore for an enjoyable afternoon of sun, sand and swimming.
Of the two I prefer Ormos Kolonia and my favourite place is long lined to the northern shore near the sandbar. Moored here, any residual flurries from the meltemi are wafted over the top of the bimini and I can relax back and dreamily contemplate the days events in peace.

Both bays have simple tavernas and there is nothing quite like sipping a cold beer whilst nibbling on a scrumptious plate of mezes as your toes wiggle in the sand and the sun sets on another perfect day of your sailing adventure.

Vathi (Sifnos)

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Vathi on the west coast of Sifnos is a well sheltered natural harbour. Vathi translates in English to “deep” but to yachts “vathi” more often refers to a well indented and well protected place to head for. Although the meltemi sends fierce gusts into the bay any swell associated with it doesn’t penetrate the narrow entrance. With a wide sandy beach and understated resort village, Vathi not only provides an excellent harbour but also a very pleasant location for a shore-side visit on your sailing holiday as well.

To anchor in Vathi all you need is a patch of sand; of which there are plenty to choose from. The beach shelves gently and the water is clear enough to avoid any weed beds.

If you fancy walk ashore access; drop the hook and go bows or stern-to the quay on the north side of the bay, near the small church. Holding is poor in some areas. There is no power available but water can be obtained. Ask at the nearby house for a key.

Vathi town is low key but slowly being discovered. Recently an upmarket hotel complex was built which has set the standard for things to come. Locals were initially divided by its construction and the advent of better road access but now most seem happy to say it has breathed new, if somewhat different, life in to the once isolated spot. Thankfully, for most of us, Vathi still seems a very picturesque and quiet place to spend a night at anchor.

Ashore there are a number of tavernas and a small supermarket. Nightlife is unpretentious and relaxed; it doesn’t take long to get to know everyone. Part of Vathi’s charm is its ability to leave the overvisited persona, that some of the more well-known Cycladic islands have, at the door and provide a more authentic experience.

Pollonia (Milos)

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Pollonia on the island of Milos is a tranquil bay that offers good protection from the meltemi and better protection in southerlies than Adamas. Drop the anchor or use the quay on the southern side of the bay then relax back on your charter yacht in delightful surroundings.

There is only one problem with Pollonia and that’s that it is really popular with local boats and as a result a lot of the bay is taken up with small moorings. Luckily the water is reasonably shallow and very clear so you should have no trouble avoiding those that still have their buoys attached and those that are now just a block on the seabed! Anchoring is in sand and the holding is good.

The quay on the southern side of the bay is used by trip boats, ferries and the local fisherman. It is possible to go alongside here leaving the end free for the ferry but it might be wise to be prepared to move if the quay is needed for commercial reasons.

Pollonia is a lovely little village of around 300 friendly inhabitants. There are plenty of tavenas, cafes and bars to choose from and fabulous sand beach for a bit of shore leave. There are a number of small shops for re-provisioning.

For a gentle stroll, take walk out to the northern headland of Pelekouda and visit the pretty church of Saint Nikolas that faces the sea. Legend has it that a couple that sits together on the chair shaped rock will be together forever. Even if this isn’t true the view will bring out the romantic side in anyone.

Pollonia is also known as Apollonia as there was thought to be a temple to Apollo located near the lighthouse on Pelekouda.

There is a winery, “Konstantakis”, located a couple of kilometres south of the main bay if you are looking to restock the yacht before moving on.

Loutra / Loutrou (Kythnos)

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Loutra/Loutrou is a delightful little harbour on the north east corner of Kithnos. Laidback and carefree, Loutra has been attracting visitors for centuries, many seeking the restoratives powers of its natural hot springs. Whether you too are looking to “take the waters” or you would just prefer to chill out in one of the harbourside bars, Loutra provides a perfect port of call for any sailing holiday.

Loutra is a popular first stop for charter yachts from Athens. On Sundays the tiny harbour can be filled to overflowing so if you want a secure berth with walk ashore access you might want to cut that afternoon swim stop short. When I say the harbour is tiny, I mean it. If there is space inside make sure you have all your ropes prepared and fenders down before entering. Inside the harbour shelter is excellent. If you have to moor on the outside wall be sure to put some distance between your transom and the quay and try to stagger your mast and rigging with neighbouring yachts. A far distant and unseen daily high speed ferry creates a significant wash that can cause temporary mayhem for the uninitiated! Likewise when the Meltemi blows strongly the outside wall can be a bit uncomfortable.

The harbour has power and water on the quay and the showers are located near the Harbourmasters office. Free Wifi is available (2015). A small charge is sometimes made for the nightly use of the quay.

Keep an eye on the depth as you approach the harbour as silting sometimes occurs.

Provisions are limited in Loutra but the restaurants serve excellent food and there are a number of good bars.

In its heyday Loutra was a “must-do” on any noble Greek or Roman’s holiday list.  Famed for its mineral rich hot springs it drew visitors from far and wide. Greece’s first king (King Otto) was so taken with the place he had a spa built here which still stands today.

If you don’t fancy the somewhat dilapidated surroundings of this establishment for your water treatment, just take a stroll down to the southern end of the very nice beach. Here you can lie back in a partially enclosed rock pool and relax in the therapeutic spring that bubbles up from the depths below. Warning: the water can be extremely hot here so test the temperature before committing your whole body!

Delos

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Delos; centre of the Cyclades and once the centre of the ancient world. This is an island steeped in myth and mystery and the archaeological ruins as some of the most interesting in Greece. Proclaimed to be the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis, Delos was long a force to be reckoned with and its powerbase extended well beyond the Cyclades. No one was allowed to be born or die on the island to preserve its neutrality and status as an island worthy of the Gods. If you are interested in ancient history, drop anchor in the main bay of Delos and add a cultural trip to your sailing holiday.

During opening hours (0800-2000 during the summer) you are allowed to anchor in the main bay of Delos on the western side of the island, opposite Nisos Megalo Remmatia. Try and anchor as close to the trip boat quay as possible without obstructing access for the trip boats. Sometimes yachts attempt to moor to the quay but this is not recommended as there are a number of shallow patches and trip boat operators can get snaky!

Protection is good here but the meltemi can be funnelled down the channel between the islands of Delos and Rinia. From experience a reduced sail plan is recommended if you decide to sail into the bay!

Dingys can be left at the harbour quay. Entrance to the site is a refreshingly cheap 5€ per person.

There is a small and very pricey snack bar ashore. If the crew are going to need a snack it might pay to take your own. Allow at least two hours to get the most out of the area as there site is well spread out.

No one is allowed access to the island overnight.

If you don’t fancy the hassle of anchoring at Delos, or the weather is against you, boat trips are available from nearby Mykonos Island. Prices are around 20€ per person and run several times a day.

Folegandros

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Folegandros is well off the beaten path for most charter yachts. Somewhat stark at first glance, the only real greenery in the island gathers around the islands capital of Chora which is built precariously close to a 200m cliff edge. This is a pleasant and rather sophisticated place to make for on your sailing holiday and some would argue that the views from Chora rival those of Santorini.

The main port of Folegandros is Karavostasi or “Ship Port”. This is the only “safe” option for yachts on Folegandros unless conditions are favourable when the bay of Vathi makes a nice alternative. Karavostasi has reasonable protection from the meltemi but can be bouncy if there has been a prolonged blow. Make sure your anchor is well in and keep as far off the quay as possible. No power, water or fuel available.

You can walk or catch the bus up to the old town of Chora from the port. There are plenty of restaurants to choose from here.

Supplies are limited on the island as they rely of ferries to bring most of their everyday essentials.