Rogoznica: The town and quay

Rogoznica: The town and quay

Rogoznica is a charming and well protected harbour, marina and anchorage on what can be a very windy stretch of coastline. With its delightful old “island” village there is more to this town than first meets the eye. Pick up a buoy; drop the hook, back onto the quay or choose a marina berth, Rogoznica welcomes all yachts.

The village sits on an island in the middle of a large bay, connected to the mainland by a low road bridge. Lack of space has fortunately prevented this picturesque settlement expanding and it retains it’s sleepy watch over the fashionable and striking architecture across the bay which is Frapa Marina.

Despite its small size, the village contains pretty much all you could need in terms of provisions, restaurants and services. Several grocers and a butcher supplement the daily market with a pharmacy, bank machine and post office also present. There a good choice of restaurants and cafes along the front.

Rogoznica has several options for mooring. The Marina Frapa is a very popular choice and occupies the most sheltered part of the outer bay. This is deemed a luxury marina and has an array of shops, cafes, bars, hotels, swimming pool, sports complex etc. etc etc. attached to the complex. A night in the marina costs 67-89€ a night for a 12m yacht (2016) with catamarans commanding a whopping 80% extra no matter what your beam! July and August considered to be high season. The marina seems somewhat soulless and it is quite a long walk around the head of the bay to the old town but if you want sheltered walk ashore access this is the best option in the area. The marina also has mooring field to the south of the marina. Prices for these are approximately 40€ per night for a vessel up to 13m in length (2016).

One of the highlights of Rogoznica is the “Dragons Eye” a natural saltwater lake located just behind the marina. If you are expecting to just stroll up and take a look it can be slightly confusing to find and I have to confess I never made it. Part of the problem is the marina has made a bar called the Dragons Cave which has been built, burrow-like, into the side of the lake. The bar allows you to drink in the shadowy underground while large seabream cruise placidly by and the rest of the lake appeared to be fenced off which begs the question of an entrance somewhere and entrance fees??  Ask at the marina office and I am sure all will become clear. The lake is known for its waters’ health giving properties and the bottom has a thick layer of hydrogen sulphide which periodically erupts cause the lake surface to “boil” and probably gave rise to the legend of the dragon eye and how the lake came into being.

If you are more interested in being in the centre of things the town quay opposite the marina is the place to head for. There are laid lines and power and water are available. This can be a very choppy place in the afternoon and it is not always the easiest place to back on to as the prevailing wind causes significant sideways pressure so be prepared for anything before attempting your manoeuvres. The price here is approximately 450kuna per night for a 15m yacht (2015).

The third alternative is to head around the “island” and either pick up a buoy east of the causeway linking the old town to the mainland or anchor east of the buoy field or in the lee of the island. (Some yachts also choose to go past the buoy field and anchor in the head of the large bay near an old military jetty but there is no real advantage to this unless it is exceptionally busy.) Having spent several days here in fairly unkind conditions I can tell you that the buoys east of the causeway have the best protection and it is only a short paddle to one of the many small concrete jetties and from there a pleasant hop-skip and a jump to the old town. Buoys were being charged out at around 40€ a day for up to 13m (2015) and anchoring is free.

A couple of words of warning regarding anchoring in this area; There is a cable marked which you must avoid when anchoring. Try to anchor east and north of the buoy field just outside the small boat moorings for the best holding. Large fishing boats come and go at all times of the day and night so try and leave the western side of the inlet free. If you anchor off the back of the “island” be aware that the bottom slopes away sharply and the holding is mostly poor. This is more of a day anchorage in my opinion and I have seen some yachts come to grief when the afternoon breeze picks up. The swimming buoys that have been laid along the beach can make life even more difficult if you inadvertently swing into them while you are trying to sort out your anchor and make a quick getaway!

Onshore the quaint old town of Rogoznica is a lively place at night and the town hosts many cultural events during the summer season. There are a plethora of restaurants to choose from and bar and cafes abound. There are a couple of good supermarkets at the mainland end of the causeway and plenty of bakeries dotted about. In short Rogoznica has pretty much everything you need to resupply.

There are several churches you can visit, swimming spots nearby with a choice of several small stony beaches.

Lastly I recommend you join the locals and take a walk around the pretty island headland on the beautifully constructed coastal path before settling in for an evening’s entertainment; excellent for the health and great for the soul.

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