Puerto Andratx / Puerto Andraitx

Puerto Andratx / Puerto Andraitx is a pretty bay with a small well developed, but largely undiscovered, resort village on its southern side. Puerto Andratx is a popular haunt for yachts of all shape and sizes and lower key than some of the marinas closer to Palma. Whether you opt for a walk-ashore berth or a night on a buoy Puerto Andratx is a very pleasant harbour in which to spend an evening.

There are three alternatives for mooring in Puerto Andratx.

First is the Club de Vela Marina. One of the oldest marinas on Mallorca, Club de Vela is a welcoming sort of place but can be costly during the summer months. (77€ for a 10m boat 2015) It is also one of the few marinas that charges double for catamarans; rather than the usual 50% extra. The marina has excellent facilities and is well maintained so you do get your money’s worth! The fresh water here is of a good quality unlike some other parts of the coast.

Your second option is the Moll Transit (Port Authority) quay/pontoon. The pontoon is located to the right as you enter the harbour proper. There is an online booking system for this but it is so complicated and unreliable most people just drop into a free spot and wait to see what happens. The Port Authority monitors VHF channel 8 if you fancy your chances of raising someone to help you in. The Moll Transit is significantly cheaper than the marina (67€ for a 16m yacht including power and water; 2015) but as a result it is usually full.

Lastly you can opt for one of the many buoys that occupy the outer part of the harbour. These buoys are managed by the Club de Vela and they are usually on hand to help you pick one up. Prices vary according to the length of your yacht and the time of the year. Expect to pay around 30€ for a 12m yacht and 40€ for a yacht between 12-15m per night (2015) If you need water you can negotiate with the marina for access to a tap. They also offer pay-as-you-go wifi – If it is operational!

Anchoring is no longer a real option in Puerto Andratx as the buoy fields cover most of the available seabed.

If you have “sand seekers” among your crew it is worth noting that Puerto Andratx lacks a decent beach.

Onshore the little town of Andraitx is an eclectic mix of styles and you can find a restaurant to suit every budget and taste. There are a couple of good supermarkets and a myriad of bars, cafes and other shops. There are some more upmarket restaurants located near the marina. This is a fairly unknown part of Mallorca but don’t be surprised to see the odd celebrity floating around as the likes of Tom Cruise and Claudia Schiffer have houses in the area.

One of the sights recommended for a visit is the old town of Andraitx located a couple of kilometres inland. This is a pleasant village and has a beautiful little square hidden away at its centre with some delightfully laidback cafes and bars around it. Andraitx is a very sleepy place normally. Its charms can appear understated at first glance so perhaps doesn’t live up to the hype in many people’s eyes, however, it makes an enjoyable trip out. During the summer season there are several festivals held here and the buses travels regularly between the port and town.

Trip boats in Puerto Andratx offer an opportunity to visit nearby Isla Dragonera if you don’t have time to sail around there yourself.

Santa Ponsa / Santa Ponca

Santa Ponsa / Santa Ponca consists of a large sandy bay and an associated “hidden” marina. Santa Ponsa is an extremely popular anchorage during the summer months; when enormous superyachts rub shoulders with the rest of the hoi polloi in search of a safe and easy anchorage. Santa Ponsa is an interesting bay to visit on your sailing holiday and, if you can afford the prices, the marina is one of the most beautiful on the island.

The anchorage at Santa Ponsa is very straight forward. The bottom is mostly sand and there is a large expanse of water at suitable anchoring depths. Well over a 50 boats frequently drop the hook here during July and August and there is always room for more! The only things to watch for are a couple of shallow patches marked with cardinals and a few underwater cables running across the bay. Luckily the water is very clear here so these are easily spotted. As you approach the head of the bay remember that things can get shallow quickly as the sand builds up here in stormy conditions and due to natural “longshore drift”. There are plenty of places to land a dingy around the shore. However, avoid the swimming platforms and launching ramps or you will find your dingy has been moved in your absence. A dingy dock is located on the south side of the bay near the beach.

The Club Nautico Marina at Santa Ponsa is extremely pretty and very well sheltered. In the summer it can be rather hot in here. Sometimes even the stiffest of breezes doesn’t penetrate. This is a very pricey marina (106€ for a 12m yacht high season 2013) but the elegant and peaceful atmosphere is perhaps worth the extra money. The facilities are good and well maintained. There are several upmarket restaurants within the marina including a very popular Indian restaurant. The reception quay is on the port side as you enter but during the busy season it pays to call ahead and make a booking and room for visitors is limited. The marina has a shallow patch near the entrance marked with cardinals. Once inside things get narrow quickly, so if possible have all your ropes, fenders etc. ready before your enter to make things easier on yourself.

This is a very popular part of Mallorca especially with the older ex-pat British and as such there is no shortage of English breakfasts on offer or shops selling PG tips! The town has a gentile quality about it and it is surprisingly quiet even at the height of summer. The shady well-treed streets make a pleasant change from the concrete jungle that typifies some of the nearby resorts.

Provisioning is easy here as there are a selection of supermarkets and shops to choose from. Likewise restaurants are a dime a dozen and cafes and bars pop up everywhere. It is just a matter of your personal preference.

At the head of Cala de Santa Ponsa there is a magnificent white sand beach and around the bay there are plenty of other opportunities to lounge about and enjoy the sun and sea.

There are not many tourist sites in the local vicinity. Towards the marina there is a cross on Punta de la Caleta and a few statues dotted about to commemorate Rey Jamie Conquistador‘s (King Jamie 1st) victory over the Moors in the 1200s but that’s about it.

Ashore there are some pleasant short walks around the bay and surrounding area. Nothing too strenuous is the order of the day in Santa Ponsa; no point in getting too much of a sweat up before joining the evening passeggiata.

The bus to Palma and Magaluf leaves at regular intervals if the crew is pining for a bit more action.

Isla de Cabrera

Isla de Cabrera lies in the Parque Nacional del Archipielago de Cabrera (Cabrera National Park). Given National Park status in 1991 Isla de Cabrera, and its neighbouring eighteen smaller islands, are as close to unspoilt as is possible in the Balearics. This is especially impressive when you realise that approximately ten million visitors descend on Mallorca each year! Book a buoy before you go and spend an evening here on your flotilla or bare boat charter yacht and listen to nothing but the wind and waves.

Due to the regulations regarding this marine and terrestrial national park, Puerto de Cabrera on Isla de Cabrera is the only bay that yachts are allowed to spend time in.

Anchoring is not permitted anywhere in Cabrera National Park.

Hefty fines can be imposed if you are caught anchoring in the park or if you pick up a buoy without booking and paying for it.

Approximately 50 buoys have been laid to protect the fragile seafloor and beds of Poseidon Weed. Yachts must obtain a permit to visit Isla de Cabrera before arriving and all buoys must be booked online beforehand.

If you want to visit Isla de Cabrera check with your charter company first as often these companies have block bookings so the work is done for you already. Usually 20 buoys are “reserved” each day for charter companies. If your chosen charter company does not have a booking, I would suggest you get the company make one for you before you leave as the online system can be frustrating. During June and September you can book two consecutive nights but during July and August only one night stays allowed. Seven days must lapse before you are allowed to revisit the area. The buoys are colour coded. White = 12m or less, Yellow = 12 to 15m, Orange = 15 to 20m and Red = 20 to 35m. High season runs from 1st May to the 30th September and the prices in 2014 were; White = 15€, Yellow = 24€, Orange = 42€ and Red = 129€ (out of season prices are half the high season price). Buoys are booked from 1800hrs to 1700hrs the following day. If you arrive before 1700hrs you may find someone still on yours and likewise if you arrive after 1800hrs you buoy may have been reallocated to someone else.

There are some “day” buoys available and park rangers can direct you to these but you must vacate the area before sunset.

Ashore there are a couple of dingy docks for trip boats and your dingy. Access is restricted to the castle/fortress and foreshore without a guide. Isla de Cabrera has had a checkered history with a distinctly military flavour. During the Napoleonic Wars the fortress was used to house French prisoners. Most did not survive the ordeal. This connection with military occupation continued until well into the 1980s before the island was granted national park status. There is a small park rangers office ashore as well as a museum and monument to the French soldiers that were forced to live here.

There are no tourist facilities in the bay so come prepared to self-cater for the night.

Isla de Cabrera is a wonderful island for those budding zoologists and botanists among you. With over 450 species of plants and 150 species of birds onshore (not to mention the other million and one invertebrates and vertebrates on land and beneath the sea!) you don’t go long before spotting something worth noting down.

For a more in depth look at Isla de Cabrera and the park make time to visit the Interpretation Centre of the Cabrera National Park located in Colonia de Sant Jordi. A new building incorporates a fascinating circular talayot – a stone tower typical to the Balearics but probably modelled after the nuraghi found in Sardinia. The Centre was constructed in 2008 and contains interactive displays and videos covering the National Parks geology, flora and fauna. There are several aquariums displaying the types of marine life that exists within the park. Admission is free. The Centre is open from 1000hrs to 1430hrs and again between 1500hrs and 1800hrs. There are guided tours or you can just make your own way around.

San Telmo / Sant Elm

San Telmo is a fabulous anchorage lying directly in front of the sleepy resort village of Sant Elm/San Telmo. While families jostle along the foreshore slurping luscious ice cream; crystal clear water laps on sandy beaches. Wind tickles the leaves of the forest behind and yachts rock gently against the backdrop of Isla Dragonera. This is a delightful place to drop the anchor or pull up to a buoy, whether it be it for lunch or overnight. If you fancy going somewhere slightly different on your sailing holiday, venture a little further than most and spend the night in San Telmo you won’t be disappointed.

The anchorage at San Telmo lies within a protected zone that runs from Punta del Morro in the south to Punta Negra in the north. This protected area includes the islet of Mitjana and Isla Pantaleu. In the summer buoys are laid between Isla Pantaleu and Punta del Morro. These buoys are in place to protect the endangered beds of Poseidon Weed and are managed by the government. The cost for using a buoy is approximately 30€/night for a 12m yacht (2013). Costs increase or decrease depending on the length of your vessel. This controversial protection programme is very unpopular with the local community. Each year there are less and less buoys and in some places none at all, so don’t be surprised if you find none here. Likewise the management of the buoys is sometimes taken over by some enterprising local group, in which case they will be quick to come out and tell you all about it! In the past the buoys seemed to be free of charge if you were only stopping for lunch.

If you would rather anchor this is still possible but anchoring is only permitted on sand. This is strictly enforced. If you want to avoid a telling off, or worse still a fine, make sure you your anchor technician has good aim! There is a large sandy patch directly in front of the main beach between Isla Pantaleu and the foreshore. This is a very popular place with locals so you will need to deploy your fenders and be prepared to get cosy with your neighbours. Most of the smaller boats leave as the sun goes down which allows additional breathing space for those spending the night.

Onshore the little village is very laidback. There are not many hotels but rather this is a resort mostly made up of apartments. The whole place is very fashionable with the Spanish and those seeking an unpretentious experience on Mallorca. There are some interesting shops and the restaurants of a high standard. Some establishments serve a range of really interesting local delicacies. I once had a very tasty “meat” dish here that turned out to be an ultra-traditional Mallorcan dish made with lights; that will teach me to ask for something really authentic but I enjoyed every bite. Also in town there are a couple of little grocery shops, a pharmacy and at the top of the hill, on the northern end of the village, a fantastic French-style bakery with some of the best croissants to be had outside France.

San Telmo is well-known as a walking destination due to its close proximity to the Tramuntana Mountain range and the so called Trappist Reserve. This is a lovely area to spend some time exploring particularly during the hotter summer months as the majority of the walking is through shady trees. (Note: in 2013 there was a major forest fire in this area so seek local advice as to the best routes to take) One of the best walks is to the abandoned Trappist monastery (Sa Trapa). If you combine this with a side trip to Torre de Cala Basset (a ruined tower built as a lookout against pirate attacks) the walk will take about three hours return. The countryside in this area is very beautiful and you are rewarded with amazing views out over Isla Dragonera at various points along the way. The last section of the walk is a bit of a scramble but the monastery ruins are interesting enough to make the effort worthwhile. If you want a shorter walk it is approximately 2.5km to Torre de Cala Basset from San Telmo. If you have small children I would keep a close eye on them on this trail as the path is narrow and the high cliff edges dropping away to the sea are perilously close at times.

Another interesting day trip from San Telmo is to Sa Dragonera/Isla Dragonera. Isla Dragonera is a small island some 2.5 nautical miles offshore and has been designated a natural park. There are several excellent walks on the island but one of the biggest highlights for most people is meeting the resident population of endemic wall lizards (Podarcis Iilford). Trip boats can take you to the island and back or you can join one of the boat excursions (around 25€ for an adult on 12.50€ for a child 2015) which last about five hours and include snorkelling, swim stops and lunch. You may be tempted to use your dingy or kayak etc. to make the trip across but from experience I can tell you there are some strong currents in this area and a breeze tends to pick up in the afternoon. The combination of the two can make the channel very choppy and unpleasant for small craft so think carefully when planning such an excursion!

Puerto Pollensa / Port de Pollenca

Puerto Pollensa /Port de Pollenca is a very pretty town with a strangely Greek favour despite its Roman origins and Spanish occupants. The pleasant jumble of dilapidated buildings, narrow streets and sleepy squares sweep around the broad bay backed by magnificent hills; no wonder Pollensa means powerful in Latin as it certainly strikes a stately pose against the backdrop. Be sure to add this delightful port to your sailing holiday route.

To avoid confusion later on it is best I point out now that the Puerto Pollensa lies a few kilometres away from the old town of Pollensa. Below I am describing the port unless otherwise indicated!

There are several options for mooring within Puerto Pollensa. The two with walk ashore access are the Club Nautico and the Port Authority berths both located at the main harbour. The Port Authority area can be found by making a sharp left hand turn after the fuel pumps. As usual the Port Authority provides the cheaper alternative but it is difficult to find space and booking is nigh on impossible. If you are really keen try anchoring off and then go ashore and ask at their office. Most visitors opt for the easiest alternative which is the long visitors quay located on the outside of the north harbour run by the Club Nautico. Here there is power, water and lazy lines. As this a popular port of call it pays to get in reasonably early if you want a berth.

Next best possibility for mooring is to anchor in the bay in front of the harbour. There is plenty of room here but holding can be “soft” so as usual aim for sand and check your anchor before going ashore. Katabatic winds tend to blow during the afternoon in this area but things settle down at night. Dinghy’s can be left at the shore end of the visitor’s quay.

There is a large mooring field north of the harbour at Puerto Pollensa which can be confusing as it would appear that some are available for pick up but no one is sure which ones! If you feel you want to pick up a buoy ask around the harbour if there is one available. There have been reports in the past of threatening behaviour if you pick up a private one by accident but generally the locals here are very laid back.

Across the bay from Puerto Pollensa, near Punta del la Avanzada (Esta d’en Ros), there is an excellent anchorage that offers good protection in extremely pleasant surroundings. Sometimes there are buoys laid here in the summer as part of the Poseidon Weed protection programme. In 2013 there was a boycott (no pun intended!) of these and as a result in 2015 none were laid. You can still anchor here if the buoys are out as long as you stay clear of the mooring field and the seaplane landing area – an approximately 100m wide strip of water directly in front of the military base marked with buoys. The Old fort/castle on shore is privately owned and not open to the public.

The harbour on the northern side of the bay is a military zone and access is prohibited.

Onshore provisioning is excellent and there are all the restaurants and bars you could need. Go a couple of streets back from the main harbour and you will find a large shady placa (square) surrounded by cafes, bars and restaurants which is popular with the locals and wonderfully relaxing after the sometimes frenetic waterfront.

The seaplanes are kept in the military harbour are part of the rural fire fighting team and make for fascinating entertainment. When I was there a major forest fire kept the planes busy for four days. Even if they are not engaged fighting a real blaze they still practice several days a month. While it can be quite un-nerving to be sitting on your yacht or on a small beach only to have them roar over at mast height on a practice run, it must be even more so for the pilots as they lower the belly of the plane into the water and scoop up thousands of litres before climbing into the sky again. Cala Vall de Boca is one such bay they like to use in particular. You can walk to this lovely little cove from Puerto Pollensa (approximately 1 ½ hours walk through some lovely scenery). Here the planes seem to touch the sandy saddle before dipping down into the narrow bay and then continuing on to perform a water bombing run.

There are many walks available in Puerto Pollensa catering for all ability levels. A walk along the foreshore towards the military base provides a good opportunity for people watching and you won’t go thirsty or hungry along the way. In the hills behind there are a number or rural walks of varying distances and intensity. As I said before the walk to Cala Vall de Boca is lovely route if you have the time and inclination. I would suggest visiting the tourist office (located next to the harbour) for a map before setting off and take plenty of water as there is not much shade.

Near the port there is a long beach for those among the crew who like to feel that soft sand between their toes.

The Old town of Pollensa is a short distance away from the port and regular buses run between the two. The old town has a lovely atmosphere and a café style culture. Small enough to visit in a morning, it makes an enjoyable trip out before heading on for the day. Most of the town dates between the 16th and 18 centuries but Pont Roma (Roman Bridge) on the edge of town dates back to the 14th century. On Sundays, there is good market in the main square and at the end of July and early August there is a festival, La Patrona, depicting the battle between the Moors and the local Christians during the 16th century.

Alcudia

Alcudia is a large, lively tourist resort with an enormous marina. Alcudia is a very popular port of call for bareboats and flotilla holidays. If you are looking for a bit of action in more sophisticated surroundings, this will suit you down to the ground.

Alcudia (from the Moorish words Al Kudia – the hill) is surprisingly flat! However, this has meant that the resort that now stands here, where once a roman capital stood, has had plenty of room to expand. In Alcudia you will find a multitude of bars, restaurants and fancy shops in the immediate vicinity of the marina. Further back from the waterfront there are yet more restaurants, cafes and bars; you will not go hungry here!

If you are looking for a more authentic atmosphere in which to dine, you have a 15 minute walk ahead of you to get to Old Alcudia. The old town of Alcudia is surrounded by a medieval wall. Inside you will find some very well preserved 13 century houses as well as yet more restaurants! However, in Old Alcudia you are more likely to find some traditional Mallorcan home cooking which makes a pleasant change from the usual tourist fare.

Supplies are readily available in town but there will be a bit of trekking involved.

The marina at Alcudia (Marina Alcudiamar) is a bustling hive of activity. With over 700 berths it can be a bit daunting after the peacefulness of sleepy anchorages but the staff are used to coaching yachts into seemingly impossibly tight spaces. Just remember to call ahead first, follow the entrance buoys and be aware that the fuel dock on the approach can create problems as large numbers of circling vessels are often waiting for fuel. The marina has all the usual facilities you would expect of a high end marina and a price tag to match during the summer months. However, things on the whole tend to be cheaper this end of Mallorca compared with the Palma area.

You can anchor to the west of the marina if you are on a budget or want to enjoy a cooler night’s sleep. Swimming buoys block off the shallow bay to the northwest of the marina but there is still plenty of space to anchor nearby. Holding is good on thick sand. There are some laid moorings in this zone but these appear to be for private use only. There is a self-service, pay-as-you-go water tap on the marina fuel quay (1€/100l) if you want to top up your tanks.

Historically this site has seen many changes. The port and immediate surroundings were developed by the Phoenicians and then added to by the Romans who made it the capital of Mallorca at one time. Once Alcudia was known for producing exquisite textiles used in the making of the finest togas in the roman empire. From these dizzying heights Alcudia’s fortunes  dropped and then were raised again from the ashes the Vandals left. You can still see parts of the city walls and the remains of a roman theatre.

Other points of interest include the church of St Juame, St Martins Cave and some interesting displays at the museum.There is an excellent market in the old town every Sunday and Tuesday.

For the bird watchers amongst you the Nature Reserve at Albufera will be of interest. With over 1600 hectares of protected wetland habitat this park is home some unusual species, including the Moustached Warbler, and it also provides a port of call for many migrating species. Entrance to the park is free and it is open to walkers and bikers. The park lies south west of the harbour behind the Bahia de Alcudia resort area. Bahia de Alcudia has a magnificent white sand beach, Platja d’Alcúdia, which stretches some 14km along the coast.

Sa Dragonera/Isla Dragonera

Sa Dragonera/Isla Dragonera lies close to the west coast of Mallorca near San Telmo. Partly named because its sinuous backbone resembles a dragon and partly because of its extensive population of large endemic wall lizards(Podarcis lilford); Sa Dragonera enjoys a natural park status. This status prevents further commercial development of this lovely island. If you have kids on board be sure to include Sa Dragonera on the itinerary as they will love the gregarious wildlife!

The passage between Sa Dragonera and Mallorca is narrow but doesn’t present too many navigational problems for most yachts. The scattering of several islets and shallow patches are all easily avoided. In strong winds this area can become very choppy and currents can become quite strong. Gusts can sweep down off the high hills complicating matters further. Approach with caution during these conditions or anchor near San Telmo and let things settle down again.

There are several anchorages on Sa Dragonera but most of them are not well suited to yachts and I would not recommend any for overnight stays.

If the weather is settled you can anchor in Cala Llado and visit the island by dingy. There is an entrance fee; 1€ 2015. The visitors centre (located in Cala Llado) has some interesting displays about the island’s history, flora and fauna. There is a huge congregation of wall lizards located here. These delightful creatures take great delight in investigating anything left on the ground including feet. The park staff asks that you not feed them and with good reason. These little lizards are more than capable of giving you a playful nip if they mistake you for dinner, as my big toe found out when mistaken for a nearby tomato!

There are four very pleasant, well marked walks to various peaks on the Sa Dragonera and to its lighthouse at Cabo Tramontana. Make sure you take plenty of water and bring your own food as there are no facilities available onshore.

If you want to visit to Sa Dragonera but are worried about anchoring there, anchor in the bay at San Telmo and make use of one of the many trip boats that zip across several times a day.

Cala de sa Calobra

Cala de sa Calobra (Cala de la Calobra) is one of the “must sees’” for land based tourists visiting Mallorca. Unfortunately for sailors the bay is not that user friendly as the anchorage is deep and the bottom a mix of slippery, silty shingle and patches with hard sand. However, in settled weather Cala de sa Calobra is a spectacular cove to spend lunch or have a swim stop. I would recommend you give anchoring a go and if needs be leave someone on board while the rest of the crew mingle with  the hoards of tourists on the beach.

If you arrive here early you might be wondering what all the fuss is about as you will probably have the place to yourself! Likewise, if you are feeling confident and stay late into the evening or overnight, the beach will be yours alone. As with most tourist sights the crowds start arriving after 10am and leave by 4pm. Trip boats ply their trade all day and dozens of tour buses traverse the sinuous road down to the tiny village of Sa Calobra to decant yet more people so, if nothing else, it can be fun to relax back here and just watch the flocks of tourists come and go.

The tiny sandy beach of Cala de sa Calobra (which can barely be seen at the height of summer for sun reddened bodies!) is protected on both sides by towering cliffs while behind it the Torrente de Pareis puddles into a blood-warm lagoon and eventually wiggles its way to the sea. This creek can be a raging torrent as the name suggests but by the height of summer it is usually reduced to a gentle trickle. The acoustics are wonderful in the gorge and in winter they hold concerts here. A cleverly constructed rock tunnel links the main beach with the small cove to the west and the road end where there are a few beach bars but no other facilities. The bars/cafes do not stay open in the evening.

There several pleasant short walks ashore including into the 5km long canyon behind the main beach but perhaps these are best used when there are less people about.

Warning: Although you may be tempted to spend the night in Cala de sa Calobra, I would not recommend it unless the weather is exceptionally benign. This coast is renowned for its unpredictable weather and Soller (to the south) is the only safe harbour available.

 

Cala San Vicente

Cala San Vicente is a gorgeous bay with limpid turquoise waters over deep white sand and a cute little tourist resort is tucked into the head of the double cove. This is a beautiful part of Mallorca with dramatic scenery and a less developed feel. The lovely anchorage of Cala San Vicente is a great place to drop the hook and spend some quality time with a good book but be warned the swell can build up quickly here and have you wishing you had sought a more sheltered bay sooner so keep a weather eye out!

You can’t really get anchoring wrong here. There is so much sand to aim at it is just a matter of finding a position that appeals and going through the motions. The only thing to watch for is a shallow rocky patch extends out reasonable distance from the shore in the western bay.

Ashore you will find plenty of cafes, restaurants and bars to choose from as well as a couple of supermarkets and a pharmacy. The head of the bay is divided into two coves, each with a sandy beach. The rocky promontory between the two is popular for sun bathing. There is a good dingy dock on the south west side of the bay.

From Cala San Vicente it is possible to walk to Pollensa on a series of tracks and roads. Maybe a good option for the members of the crew that need a bit more exercise or a break from the captain! There are also a number of other trails to explore. Many of them lead to lovely deserted little calas along the coast. A very interesting route takes you out towards Punta de Covas Blancas on the west side of the bay. This is a pleasant stroll along tracks and a road made by civil war prisoners. The route winds through a shady grove of trees, followed by open country with goat trimmed vegetation clinging tenaciously to rocky bluffs. At the end of the walk (approximately 1 hour) there are a series of gun emplacements to poke around in. Bring a torch to get the most out of the experience. Also along this track you may be lucky enough to hear, or even see, the endangered Perez’s Frog in one of the shallow ponds that dot the hills.

 

Cala Es Calo

Cala Es Calo is an eerily striking anchorage at the base of the steeply rising cliffs and hills of Cabo Farrutx and the peak of Puig d’Es Porrasa behind. Popular as a day anchorage, Cala Es Calo is a great place to make a swim stop before sailing your charter yacht across the bay to Alcudia for the night.

Anchoring can be tricky here as there is a lot of rock and weed. Further south of the main bay there is a small beach and cove which has a good sand bottom if you are having difficulties getting your anchor to hold.

At the north end of the bay there is a little harbour which is great for landing the dingy and accessing the Parc Natural de Peninsula de Llevant. I wouldn’t recommend trying to anchor within the harbour as it is very shallow and there are numerous unmarked rocky patches. If you want to get close to the harbour in your yacht, I suggest you proceed very slowly and station a lookout on the front.

Cala Es Calo has no facilities. “Not even a beach bar??!” I hear you gasp. Yes, not even a beach bar this has been designated a wilderness area. Ashore there are walking tracks to various points in the park and a well-travelled one which leads south along the coast to a small resort town. This track passes Cueva des Vells Marins; a cave system that is not quite as spectacular as some on the island but worth the stroll for the great views out over the sea.

If you are at all uncertain about your anchoring abilities DO NOT spend the night here!

Cala Es Calo suffers from nightly katabatic winds which can wreak havoc on yachts anchored in the bay. Better that you enjoy a pleasant day here and then seek the shelter of a more sheltered area for the night. Likewise if it is a windy day (particularly noticeable in strong SE winds) the topography of the hills can create nasty down draughts and choppy seas close to shore instead of shelter!