Mali Lago and Veli Lago (Lastovo)

Mali Lago (small bay) and Veli Lago (big bay) are two bays formed by the man-made causeway that bridges the channel cut between Prezba and Lastovo islands. The tiny and pretty village of Pasadur, backed by dense pinewood forest, straddles the two bays. With its handful of restaurants and bars is a wonderfully tranquil place to spend a day or two. Not many yachts make the effort to sail to Lastovo and, quite frankly, they don’t know what they are missing out on. Convince your skipper, charter a bareboat or join a flotilla that includes Lastovo in its itinerary and you won’t be disappointed.

Mali Lago: The bay, centre left, between the islands of Lastovo, left, and Prezba, right

Mali Lago: The bay, centre left, between the islands of Lastovo, left, and Prezba, right

There are some very good beaches here and the water is clear and cool. Maybe take a swim after exploring one or two of the many walking tracks that criss-cross the wooded hills around the bays.

From Pasadur it is possible to organize trips around the island. The old village of Lastovo is a delightful hotch potch of crumbling Venetian mansions the cling to a cirque on the northern side of the island and is well worth a visit. The village is also famous for its curiously elaborate chimneys (fumars) and being the last known place in Europe to have an outbreak of vampirism. Everywhere has to have at least one claim to fame!

It is possible to rent a bike to explore Lastovo Island in a sweatier fashion. A trip to the top of Mount Hum – 417m and the highest point on the island – gives the not so fainthearted excellent views down into Skrivena Luka (Portorus) as well as back towards Pasadur and out over the surrounding islands and sea.

For a nice energetic walk to keep the yacht crew fit, head right from the quay in Veli Lago, towards Ubli. Then look for a walking trail signpost off on the left that leads up the wooded hill for a walk that sweeps up and around (to the left) and returns you to the road that leads out to the mouth of Mali Lago Bay from the causeway. It is then a simple matter of turning left and following this road back to the causeway. This circuit takes about 1 hour and definitely makes the beer taste better!

To the south, at the head of Veli Lago, yachts can use the quay directly in front of the Solitudo Hotel (the only hotel on Lastovo) with lazy lines, power and water. Note there can be a current flowing through the narrow causeway (sometimes up to 3 knots) so bear this in mind when manoeuvring close to the bridge.

This quay is very handy for the handful of restaurants and bars as well as the lovely walking opportunities to be had in the forest behind. To the north Mali Lago provides a delightful anchorage as long as the bora isn’t blowing. In this area the bora blows N to NE and can make Mali Lago uncomfortable. The good news it isn’t far to go round (yes, you will have to go round as the causeway only has a clearance of 2m)! to Veli Lago or Jurjeva Luka.

This area is part of the Lastovo Nature Park established in 2006 which includes the 43 surrounding islands and islets. A modest 30 kuna per person per night (2015) park fee applies for yachts staying in the park and it is worth every lipa. The quay side with power and water attracts a further charge depending on the length of boat.

Due to its strategic position, Lastovo has been ruled by many countries over the centuries and used a military base by most, so the island is dotted with interesting relics and ruins from various periods and the bay of Jurjeva, (west of the quay in Veli Lago) is no exception. Here you can poke about in the various submarine/boat tunnels. Yachts can even moor up in the entrances and they make for a fascinating insight into military campaigning.

Lastovo is a bit off the main yacht charter route but it’s worth the effort to get there.With gems like Mali and Veli Lago you can’t go wrong.

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